(First in a series of articles on menswear.)

Disclaimer: Some of this content is hearsay–Southern (not urban) legend. It makes enough sense to me to be believable. 

In the 1950s, white bucks were often worn by the financial and business elites on Wall Street and also by gentlemen of the best law firms.  Most of these guys came from the Ivy League schools in the Northeast.  A common combination included a navy blazer, white trousers, and pristine white bucks.

Young men in the schools of the Southern Ivy League (Duke, Emory, Tulane, Rice, to name a few) got wind of the trend and, true to the rebel/renegade reputation they enjoyed, started wearing white bucks that were anything but pristine.  Black scuff marks, scratches, small rips or tears, added character and charm to the shoes. It caught on quickly and still can be seen today, a style choice kept alive by men who still behave like the rebels of their heritage. 

Therefore, when you see a gentleman wearing dirty white bucks, don’t scoff or shake your head in dismay. Simply be aware he’s still a renegade who’s proud of his reputation and isn’t neglecting his shoes.